Owner DIY

After a big storm: Austin pool checklist

Austin storms can drop inches of rain in an hour, fill skimmers with leaves and debris in minutes, and shift pool chemistry significantly before the water even stops draining from the deck. The right order of actions matters: flow first, chemistry second. Shocking a pool with a clogged basket is wasteful. Shocking a pool that flooded the equipment pad without checking breakers is dangerous. This checklist gets you through both in the right sequence.

Key takeaways

  • Safety first: scan the equipment pad for standing water, tripped breakers, or loose wiring before touching anything.
  • Restore circulation before adding any chemicals. Chemicals need water moving to do anything.
  • Empty both the skimmer basket and the pump basket. Storms can pack them simultaneously.
  • Rain dilutes chemistry but does not help it: test before dosing so you know what actually changed.
  • Net floating debris quickly. Leaves soaking for hours release tannins that stain plaster and consume chlorine.
  • If the pool turned muddy or chocolate brown, this is beyond a DIY fix. Call for service.

Austin context

Central Texas storms are fast and intense. The Hill Country terrain funnels storms that can deliver three to five inches of rain in a couple of hours. That kind of rainfall event dilutes chemistry, dumps organic load from oak canopy and limestone sediment, and can push water level well above the skimmer. Austin & West Austin pools that look fine Monday morning can be struggling by Tuesday if nobody checks them after a Monday night storm.

Heavy storms often arrive mid-week, between weekly service visits. The owner checklist below closes that gap and keeps a manageable water chemistry problem from compounding into an algae outbreak or a stained finish by the time the tech arrives.

Step zero: assess the equipment pad before touching it

Do not wade into standing water near the equipment pad. Rain pooling around pumps, heaters, or panels creates an electrical hazard. Look first: is water draining away, or is it standing? Are any breakers tripped? Is anything visibly damaged, disconnected, or submerged?

If you see standing water, tripped breakers you did not trip, or any wiring that looks disturbed, call a tech before doing anything else. A tripped GFCI or main breaker after a storm is not a reset-and-move-on situation until the cause is understood.

Circulation comes before chemistry

The most common storm mistake is adding shock or chemicals before confirming the pump is actually moving water. A fully packed skimmer or pump basket means circulation is weak or stopped. Chemicals added to a stagnant pool just sit there. Worse, a concentrated dose near the suction inlet or plaster can cause spotting.

Clear the baskets and confirm returns are pushing water before you open any chemical container.

  • Empty skimmer basket.
  • Empty pump basket.
  • Confirm pump primes and returns push.
  • Then and only then: check chemistry.

Water level after heavy rain

Heavy rain can raise pool water well above the normal skimmer midpoint. High water submerges the weir door and kills surface skimming even when baskets are clear. Most pools have an overflow drain or the skimmer itself manages high water passively, but you may need to waste water down to mid-skimmer if the level rose significantly.

Do not let water drop too low either. After a storm, people sometimes forget to check a pool that was high after rain and find it low a day later due to normal evaporation. Low water starves the pump.

Testing before adding chemicals

Rain dilutes free chlorine and can shift pH, depending on how acidic the local rain is. Test before dosing. Adding a full shock dose to water that was only mildly diluted wastes product and can overshoot.

After a long storm with significant overflow, your first test may show very low free chlorine and a pH that moved. Add what the test actually says you need, not what you guessed based on how much it rained.

Debris management before chemistry matters more than you think

Leaves, catkins, and organic sediment that sit on the pool floor consume chlorine rapidly and release tannins that stain lighter plaster surfaces within hours. Net and vacuum what you can before adding sanitizer so the chemical has to deal with less organic load.

You do not have to vacuum the entire pool before dosing. But pulling the big floating debris out before shocking gives the chemical more working capacity for the actual sanitation task.

When a storm is truly a recovery situation

If the pool looks cloudy brown or green, if sediment is covering the floor, or if rain caused the water level to overflow the coping significantly, this is beyond a checklist clean. A recovery requires sequenced brushing, filtration cleanup, and chemistry correction over days, and it is faster and cheaper with professional help.

Weekly service customers get priority guidance after major storms. Calling for a tech assessment is much more efficient than adding random chemicals to green water.

Step-by-step

  1. 1

    Scan the equipment pad before touching anything

    Check for standing water near pumps, heaters, or the breaker panel. Look for tripped breakers or GFCI outlets. Do not step into standing water near electrical equipment. If anything looks flooded or damaged, call a tech before proceeding.

  2. 2

    Empty the skimmer basket

    Lift the deck lid and pull the skimmer basket. Storms can fill it entirely with leaves, debris, and sediment in a single event. Empty into a trash bag. Free the weir door if it is jammed with debris so it can swing again.

  3. 3

    Empty the pump basket

    Shut the pump off, open the pump lid, and empty the basket. Inspect the o-ring and reseat it cleanly before closing the lid. Restart and confirm the pump primes and returns push water before moving to chemistry.

  4. 4

    Check water level

    Assess whether rain raised the water above mid-skimmer. High water buries the weir door and kills surface skimming even with clear baskets. Waste water down to mid-skimmer if level is high. If water is below mid-skimmer, top up before the pump runs long.

  5. 5

    Check filter pressure

    Read the filter pressure gauge. If it has spiked above your clean baseline, plan a backwash (sand filter) or a cartridge rinse after you have confirmed circulation. Do not rinse or backwash before the pump is primed and running.

  6. 6

    Test free chlorine and pH

    With circulation running, collect a proper mid-pool sample away from returns. Test free chlorine and pH. Note the results. Add liquid chlorine only if free chlorine is very low and you know safe dosing. Do not guess at a dose. Share readings with your tech.

  7. 7

    Net and skim floating debris

    Use a leaf net to pull floating debris from the surface and floor if accessible. The faster organic material is out of the water, the less it consumes chlorine and stains the finish. Focus on the floor and deep end where sediment settles.

Common mistakes

  • Adding shock immediately after a storm before checking whether the pump is moving water.
  • Resetting a tripped breaker without investigating why it tripped.
  • Not emptying both the skimmer and pump basket, so weak flow mimics a chemistry problem.
  • Ignoring floating leaves for a day because the water looks okay: tannins stain quickly.
  • Wasting water from an already low pool level instead of raising it.
  • Testing and dosing with stagnant water near the return or skimmer where concentration skews the reading.

Safe for owners

  • Empty both baskets and confirm pump circulation.
  • Adjust water level to mid-skimmer.
  • Test chemistry and share readings with the tech.
  • Net floating debris to reduce organic load.
  • Check filter pressure and plan backwash or rinse.

Call a pro

  • Pool turned muddy, brown, or green: full recovery protocol.
  • Equipment flooded: inspection before restart.
  • Tripped breaker diagnosis.
  • Scale, staining, or plaster damage from storm runoff.
  • Sediment vacuuming and clarifier treatment on heavily loaded water.

Why weekly care matters

Pools on weekly service usually weather storms better because chemistry is more stable going in and baskets were recently cleared. A pool that is two weeks out from service has more organic load, more accumulated debris, and less balanced chemistry when a storm hits, which compounds the recovery. Weekly service is also how the tech builds knowledge of your specific pool: which skimmer packs first, where sediment settles, and how much the chemistry moves after different rain amounts.

Common questions

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